Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Cafe along the road

 Here's Tarquin and BD in the cafe we stopped for coffee in. Patient cat, wonderful date scones, lovely woman named Maria who was very taken with BD and the embroidery I'd done on her blouse. 









 
 Nancy, Maria, Terry. Terry and I each bought a lovely bone carving from a local artist--named Bones! Maria took our addresses so that he could send us a picture and explanation of what we'd bought. We were glad we stopped.








Cool rock withe LOTS of fossils! BD really liked it. 
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Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Matamata and Hobbiton

Then we hit the road for a bit of a hair-raising ride in the dark with lots of rain. After buying beer (there are important things in life!), we found the campervan park. Ick. Not our favorite place to stay, for sure. Hot water, but not much cleanliness in the shower, and the bathrooms were unisex because of renovations. Pretty funny.

We got up early and headed into Matamta for the Hobbiton tour. The Hobbiton set was built on a local sheep farm. The contract specified that everything would be returned to its original state once filming was done, but rain prevented that for awhile and the film asked for an extension, which was grantd. The restoration was never completed because by the time the weather was more conducive, people had been searching for the location and the owners of the farm (3 brothers) smelled a revenue opportunity. They opened a tour company and the remaining sets were left in situ, of which one is Bag End.

It's an absolutely lovely spot. None of the same colors and plants, of course, but still they've done a nice job of labeling things, and our guide Theresa was charming and enthusiastic. We were in a group with a couple from Pueblo, for pete's sake, and a girl from Marseille, France, named Méroé, who was SO absolutely delighted to be on a set of the movie. She got these faraway looks on her face, so happy to have some experience of the movies. She was traveling with her mother who had not seen the movies (what IS it with some parents, anyway ;>), so was clueless about her daughter exclaiming, "Here is where Mordor was! I want to go to Hobbiton!" and so forth. We got her email address and will send her our pictures of Edoras, and I gave her our blog address.

The tour really was enjoyable. I wasn't sure, but it turned out to be just grand, and we, once again, couldn't have asked for better weather. The pictures are very pretty. Including several of BD, who had a great time. She liked being in the window of Bag End. One of the guys on the tour held her from behind so she didn't fall down. As I said earlier, other people have really gotten into the idea of having BD participate, it's been very fun.

Of course we did the touristy thing and bought a few Hobbiton souvenirs. Including SobeRing Thoughts, the beer the film company commissioned at the Harrison brewery in Nelson. The thought was good--they figured that the Hobbits would be happier with the long hours of filming, and look happier, if they actually gave them real beer. But of course, couldn't be full strength or pretty soon no one would care what was going on . So they had a 1% brand brewed up, which the tour company now sells.

It is absolutely dreadful, just not worth the water it took to make it! I took a sip and stopped. And to add insult to injury, the label is glued on with industrial-strength glue and can't be removed to take home. Drat! But I got pictures, anyway.

We stopped by a wonderful computer store, Hurricane Computers, after the tour, to see if the netbook can be fixed. No joy--hard drive is gone, couldn't even get my journal off of it. Sigh. We still have our pictures on our camera cards, but all the work I've done in Picasa, labeling pictures and journaling, is gone. Have to start over when I get home. I grieved for it over a couple of (good) beers, I've found I really like blogging with pictures. Sigh. Netbooks are great, but don't drop them. I think a Mac or other more robust notebook might have survived.

Went to lunch in a grand small place, a bar on the main street of Matamata. We've had absolutely splendid food, in the most unpreposessing places. Absolutely fabulous! Today it was seafood chowder for me, lamb sandwich for Nancy, lovely white "pizza" for Terry. All were tasty, hot and cooked perfectly. And this is not uncommon! Literally, any little place you go has great food.

Then back on the road, heading for Auckland and a campervan park near the airport. Tomorrow is packing, which will be interesting.... we've picked up quite a few "memories". Then we fly to Sydney for a couple of days.

Rotorua

Then on to the hot springs and steam vents and bubbling mud of Rotorua. I wanted to see burbling mud, and there's a park in the centre of town where we could wander to our hearts' content.

There are steam vents EVERYWHERE in this area, makes you wonder just how safe it is to live there. Gad, I'd worry some fissure was going to open up under my house! The smell is a bit hard to take at first, but I'm told you get used to it. Rotten eggs isn't quite my cuppa, but no one seems to care.

The park was great fun. Besides seeing (and taking LOTS of pictures) of bubbling mud and steam vents and really cool winding trees, I got to put my legs in a hot pool. Pretty cool. Almost worth the drive in Ralph the Behemouth to find a place to park. I can't imagine trying to drive in Rotorua in high season!

We passed a sign for the Rotorua Pipe Band, but didn't have a chance to track them down. Drat!

Taupo

Lake Taupo is a volcanic lake with a lovely town on the shores. The lake is huge. Can't remember how many square miles, but lots. And it's that lovely clear blue that is so gorgeous. Fall on the North Island is still in evidence, whereas it had practically turned into winter on the South Island. So the Fall colors were in full evidence in Taupo.

Also had a Superloo (honest, that's what they called it!), a very flossy public toilet that cost us .40 to use. We had to do it, of course--another first! Made a stop in the i Site (info centre) because Nancy and Terry needed MORE MAPS, then we moved on.

Outside of Taupo we went to Maku Falls (drat, should have brought the map w/ me, I'm not sure that's the exact name). Stunning blast of water that goes from 100m to 15m and back out to 100 in the space of about 100 yd. Just gorgeous, with beautiful vegetation and mist. Really worth a stop, and free. Just lovely.

On beyond Napier

Sigh. No pictures now, computer took a header and the hard drive is toast.

We left Napier and headed north. Long day, but lovely. Stopped for tea at an wonderful find, a tea shop just along the side of the road that had the world's best date scones, and a wonderful, heartful woman who was delighted to see us.

She had a cat there, named Tarquin, and we took pix of BD with the cat. BD is finally fully clothed, having gotten a shirt in the last couple of days. I embroidered a fish hook on it, which is a common symbol in New Zealand, but I did it by memory and it also looks like a koru, the lovely graceful unfurling fern frond that means new beginnings. Maria, the cafe owner, was very taken with it and showed us the work of a local artist named Bones, who carves wonderful things out of Bone.

BD, btw, stands for Barb Doll. Barb couldn't come with us, so we took a doll and have added NZ things to her as we've traveled, and included her in many pictures. She's had a great time, and we've had fun carrying her around. Others have really enjoyed her too.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Napier

And here we are in Napier, on the Marine Parade, with Hawkes Bay in the background. Manhandling Ralph around a busy sea-side town was an interesting challenge, but we survived. We are currently in our most expensive campervan park (54NZD), but the bathrooms are splendid!

Tomorrow we head toward Lake Taupo and Rotorua.
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Moana Park Winery

Wanted to go to The Grail Winery, because we liked the name and the tasting room is in a pub. But the pub didn't open until 2:00, which was a half hour or so away, and we wanted to fill the time.

So we went on down the road to the Moana Park winery, which makes allergen-free wine. Dan the co-owner with his wife Kay, told us why it's allergy-free. Something about not putting as much sulfite in it, but I can't remember at the moment. We went in not planning to buy any wine and walked out with 3 bottles, including a really delicious ice wine.

Picture is of Dan and Terry.

This was our last winery, we were wine-out, believe it or not.
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Matariki Winery

Having learned of Matariki at Stonehenge, we of course had to visit a winery called the same thing. Trevor, the fellow who served us our tastings, told us they'd named it that because the rising of Matariki means the new year, new beginnings, and that's what the winery was for them.

Look closely at this picture. Believe it or not, the bush behind Terry, BD and Nancy is ROSEMARY! The whole thing, rosemary. Reason enough to move to a country where one of my favorite plants grows this big!! Rosemary!
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Pahiatua campsite

Just a lovely spot. We heard more birds in the few hours we were there than we have anywhere else, including in the US. Just amazing, the number and frequency of birdsong. Beautiful.
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Campsite in Pahiatua

We didn't make it far out of Wellington, but we'd done a lot so we stopped a little early. At a lovely park-like camper park in Pahiatua.

This is a picture of sunrise this morning, through the trees.
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Giant kiwi

Just had to take a picture of this! Town name is Ekatahuna.
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Clouds

After leaving Stonehenge, we saw the sun coming through the clouds and managed to get some decent pictures.
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Matariki/Pleiades

The seven-pointed structure in the foreground is the Pleiades. To the Maori the time of year when Matariki can first be seen rising, which this year is May 20, is the end of the year.
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Looking north

Lined up in the south, looking north. Obelisk in the center.
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Obelisk

This hole through the obelisk shows the exact position of the Southern pole star.
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Winter Solstice stone

Winter Solstice stone through one of the openings. All the openings and placements were first planned and modeled by computer.

They are currently rebuilding an observatory that the US Navy donated to them.
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Stonehenge

Then on to an absolutely magical place, Stonehenge Aotearoa. It's an adaptation (their word) of Stonehenge in England. Not a replica, but a working model of the heavens, incorporating navigation from the Polynesians, starlore from the Maori and the Celts, and knowledge from the Egyptians, Indus Valley and a couple of other cultures I can't remember at the moment. Just a fabulous thing, built out of concrete and stone and oriented on the sun, moon and stars.

Richard Hall was manning the desk and he was a font of knowledge. We learned later that he's an astrononomer and president of the Phoenix Astronomical Society, the group that planned, implemented and built Stonehenge Aotearoa. Aotearoa, btw, means Land of the Long White Cloud, a reference to the clouds that are always above the mountain range that runs through the center of the country.

We picked up several books that I'm pretty sure we can't get anywhere else. Just fascinating.
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"The Look"

One in particular was NOT happy that we were in the way. I got out of Ralph to try to help shoe the cattle in the right direction. This girl eventually went, but not before letting me know that she was NOT happy.

I need to remember this gimlet stare on Monday nights...
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Escaped cattle!

On the road again, making pretty good time until we were slowed down by some escaped cattle! Pretty funny for us, though of course the poor owners were not nearly so enchanted. These cattle were really enjoying the forbidden fruit of the roadside grasses. You see one of the owners in the background turning the girls back. They had to go around our van, of course, and some of them weren't too happy about that.
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Rose at Paua shop

The last night in Wellington we went to the new Star Trek movie, and just loved it! It was a good way to get away from the hustle of Wellington. Very busy city, that!

Then got on the road north, heading eventually for Auckland. Stopped first in Featherston.

Paua is abalone shell that is very prevalent in NZ. We went to a tourist shop with lots of it, but this was my favorite. It must be so easy to grow a garden in NZ! It's coming on to be their winter, and yet this rose was perfect.
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My favorite tattoo!

I loved this one! So much of tattooing seems SO very serious to me, but this cracked me up.
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Tattoo clients

Lots of different sorts of tattoos for sure. There were tons more than this.
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Tattoo museum

Then we went to the National Tattoo Museum in Wellington. Whether or not it's an official museum I have no idea, but it was interesting. Lots of people have had lots of tattoos over the years, and have had their pictures taken. This was my 2nd favorite, a very typical NZ symbol of the unfurling fern, representing new beginnings. One of the Maori names for it is the Koru. Very graceful and beautiful.

We learned that Samoan males get tattoos as a rite of passage. Samoan tattoos look like shorts, starting a little above the waist and going to the knee.

Maori face tattoos represent their lineage. Tattooing fell out of favor but is coming back. Men tattoo their entire faces, and women tattoo just the chin.

The traditional method for such tattooing is a bone chisel attached at right angles to a stick. The person doing the tattoo puts the chisel on the skin and taps it, creating a puncture. Then whatever they're using for ink is rubbed on the hole. Gad, I can't imagine--it sounds SO painful. No wonder it's a rite of passage. And people can die from infection if the skin isn't properly cared for.
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My favorite, of course

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weta museum

There's a room filled entirely with figures that Weta has sold but which are no longer available. Heaven for LOTR fans, I'll tell you!
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Elvish armor

Used in the LOTR movies, and every bit as impressive up close as it is on screen. Typical of Weta detail. They strive to make works of art and they do.

I learned from the manager of the store--which is Weta Cave--that Peter Jackson and Richard Taylor were friends when they were kids. And their bedrooms looked a lot alike--full of chemicals, film, whatever because they were always making things. In the short video they show at Weta Cave, Peter Jackson refers to Weta as the "Place of happy souls", and so it appears to be. Everyone seems to absolutely love doing what they do.
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John Howe at Weta

We just happened to be there when John Howe was doing a signing. We didn't have him sign anything -- the line was too long and it's a teeny place--but still it was wonderful to be there at that time. He took a lot of time with each person in line too, as lovely a person as Alan Lee when the Smial hosted him in Denver.
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Weta!

We went to Weta! Something of little interest to anyone but LOTR fans, probably, but it was really cool.
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